The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Across the Globe

So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 vines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and more diverse. They preserve land from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the president.

Unknown Polish Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on

Peter Hernandez
Peter Hernandez

A licensed esthetician with over 10 years of experience in skincare and beauty treatments, passionate about helping clients achieve radiant skin.